CHAPTER X. THE NATIONAL HOLIDAYS. CELEBRATIONS ON SEPTEMBER 17th.-ON THE 18th: PROCESSION TO THE CATHEDRAL; HIGH MASS; VISIT TO THE PRESI- Though the 18th of September is the anniversary of the independence of Chile, government ordains that the 17th and 19th shall also be national holidays, and the masses continue their frolics and carousals until near the commencement of October. In the year 1850, the celebrations began at noon of the 17th by a national salute fired at the castle, a general ringing of the bells, a display of the Chilean flag from every house, and bands of the several regiments parading through the streets playing the national hymn. By 1 P. M. the musicians had all collected in front of the Mint (President's quarters); but as there had been a heavy snow-storm on the mountains (rain in the city) on the preceding day, the air was raw and comfortless for Santiago, and scarcely more than a thousand persons assembled in the square. For the same reason it was found necessary to postpone a portion of the ceremonies until the 20th; and, outwardly, the day closed with more music, another military salute, and a partial illumination of the houses at night. Next year the celebrations began at sunrise, and though essentially the same, the order of ceremonies for the several days was somewhat varied. It was an epoch of much anxiety and excitement. There were more salutes fired, more flags displayed, and more general illuminations at night (by order of the municipal chief); but previously, the police were specially particular to notify the head of each household that the new Intendente was resolved to enforce all fines for non-compliance with these patriotic ordinances, as well as for omitting the preparatory annual whitewashing. As the fines range from $4 to $20, at his discretion, in order to save the mulct, every one runs up a piece of bunting, and manages to place a few tallow candles along the blank walls. A stranger in Santiago, without this explanation, would imagine himself among a people enthusiastically patriotic. Of course our contribution to the display could not be very great, but our own bright flag was run up (and a superb one it was); and at night, as there was too much wind to expose it on the observatory, a star-shaped frame crowded with lights was erected on the front of our house. The latter needed distance and elevation to give it effect, and when appropriately placed on subsequent nights it attracted much attention. By direction of the President, an invitation was sent to us from the governor to meet the public authorities and foreign ministers in the Senate chamber at 10 A. M. of the 18th, thence to proceed to the cathedral and participate in rendering thanks to the Almighty for his blessings on the nation. It having been arranged that we should proceed in the carriage with Mr. Peyton, our party repaired to the United States legation in full dress shortly prior to the appointed time. Besides himself, the only foreign representatives present were the Chargés from France and Brazil: the English gentleman pleaded indisposition, the Peruvian actually was ill and at Valparaiso, and the Spaniard could not thank God for having deprived his country of one of her fairest colonies. We found there a number of officers in superbly embroidered uniforms; no inconsiderable proportion of church dignitaries; and all the cabinet ministers, municipal authorities, and members of the University. The procession was formed as soon as the President appeared, and marched from the Senate chamber to the cathedral-two squares distant-preceded and followed by squadrons of lancers. The head of the column consisted of distinguished officers; next came the ecclesiastical corporations; then the faculties of the university and national institute; fourth, the governor and municipal authorities, with our party in their midst; fifth, the foreign ministers; and finally the President and his cabinet, himself in a richly embroidered uniform as general, with the insignia of his civil office-a broad tri-colored band, and similar tinted plumes in his chapeau. On either side of the streets leading to the cathedral, and around the four sides of the great square, the National Guard were drawn up to the number of 6,000 men; their several bands commencing the national hymn as the head of the column drew near. Except where the lancers kept an open lane for us, the streets and plaza were occupied by a compact living mass; but there were neither "vivas" nor outward evidences of enthusiasm-scarcely animation; simply passive curiosity, from the high-born dames who occupied the balconies overhead, to the unwashed loafers of the thoroughfares. We were received between lines of priests at the door of the cathedral. The body of the edifice was already occupied by spectators. All the chandeliers over the choir, and the candelabras of the altars in the aisles, besides candles in infinite number over and about the high altar, were lighted, producing a brilliant effect. On both sides of the nave, from the centre of the church towards the choir, arm-chairs of crimson velvet had been substituted for the benches usually there, each chair having before it a cushion of down, covered also with silk velvet. These seats were occupied by the members of the procession, that of the President being midway between our two lines and farthest from the altar. Closing immediately in the rear of the procession was the company of cadets from the Military Academy, who entered the cathedral, posting two guards on each side of his Excellency, and one on either side of the chair nearest to the body of the church. As they were required to remain immovable on post, it was necessary to relieve them every fifteen minutes; and the sharp clang of the bayoneted musket in the midst of the rites, was no uninstructive subject of reflection on the religion of a country claiming republicanism. The remainder of the company remained just at the door until wanted; but the side aisles and a portion of the nave beyond the special guests and officials were filled with officers of the line and regiments of civic troops; so that the assemblage was extremely showy. Nor was beauty wanting to lend its charm. Many of the most superb women of Santiago were present, probably deeming it of vital consequence to attend at the high mass of this morning. Custom forbids the entrance of females into church with bonnets, or any other than black dresses; so that they are wholly dependent on their own charms; but during the national holidays they substitute costly black lace for the thick mantle usually worn, and exhibit no little taste as well as display in their splendid missal-a ring or bracelet being sometimes permitted to be seen in even that sacred place. To describe the service of high mass may not easily be done by one uninitiated; and I confess myself wholly unable to speak of it with the reverence that it perhaps merits. A multitude of priests in vari-formed and parti-colored robes, amid clouds of incense swelling from silver censers, were in constant genuflexion as they passed with missals and vessels before the altar to the archbishop or desks. Some of them wore a species of short gown of white muslin over a black robe, for all the world like those so common in déshabille among the ladies of the United States. These priests seemed to have little other employment than the conveyance of different articles of dress, one by one, to and from the archbishop and altar. The vestments were borne on broad silver salvers, were received by two old gentlemen in yellow silk embroidered robes, and occupied in putting on and taking off from his right reverence quite as much time as either of the other portions of the service. At one time I began to think the head of the church would be enveloped to such an extent as to exclude a view of the altar, and was only relieved from apprehension when they began stripping him again. This, with a few words of half-sung, half-drawled Latin, a sermon from a toothless old canonigo which no one near us could hear a word of, and an abundance of good music from two organs, made up the whole ceremony. At four different times a deputation of priests, preceded by their usher, came from the altar to perform a portion of the rites over the President. First, to bless him; and judging from the closed hands kept before him, I presumed it a proxy sent by the archbishop. At the second visit they perfumed him with incense; next, they brought a book for him to kiss-perhaps the New Testament; and lastly, a silver crucifix was in like manner offered for the salutation of himself, and subsequently to each of us. It was borne on a richly embroidered napkin; and a smile possibly crept over my face as I watched the progress of the priest towards our minister plenipotentiary; for the gentleman beside me, properly estimating how we would regard such "lip-service,' pealed to me in a serio-comic manner, "Don't laugh, but follow the example of others." Watching our file-leader-the President—and following his motions, we had been on our knees it would be difficult to say how many times; and I would have kissed a bit of the arch-enemy himself had it been presented,-though I rather think my companion would have preferred the ruddy lips of a dark-eyed Chilena just before us: so I put on the gravest face, and saluted the emblem in all humility, well knowing that if it did me no good, it would do me no harm. ap Except a Te Deum-such as only a grand organ like the new one here could do justice tothis was the closing part of the ceremonies; and we filed out of church in the order we had entered, proceeding to take leave of his Excellency at the place of assembling. The whole had occupied three hours, and we were tired enough. But the day was not yet over. We had embarked to render all honor to the nation, and resolved to leave no courtesy unextended. The next step was an official visit to the President at the palace. Crowds returning from the plaza, dressed in their gayest apparel, thronged the streets; and the troops marching to sprightly music, with banners flying from the portals of the low-walled houses, produced a scene highly animating. All evidences of the preceding storm had passed away, leaving, under a sunlight tempered by fleecy clouds, a balmy air exceedingly delicious to inhale. Neighboring hills robed in the richest verdure; Santa Lucia, with its castellated and seemingly basaltic crags, surmounted by our eyrie; the snow-capped Andes in the back-ground to the east; the Central cordilleras on the west,-all were enveloped in a bluish haze, not unlike the atmosphere of our Indian summer. We were the first strangers to reach the palace, finding there only his Excellency, the "Presidenta" with her children, and three sisters; himself portly, gracious, and obliging as ever; they, courteous and kind-hearted. In addition to the cabinet ministers, I doubt whether more than fifteen persons subsequently presented themselves. Among them the Chargé d'Affaires from France was the only other diplomat, and General O'B. the most conspicuous among the military men. The latter stands something more than six feet two in his stockings; is a well formed, graceful native of the Emerald Isle, who lost the use of a hand in the service of Chile, and his breast was literally covered with medals and decorations the rewards for gallant services. Having been early invited to accompany his Excellency to the National School for Mechanic Arts in Yungai, an hour was passed in conversation with the ministers and officers of the revolution who came to make their respects to the Chief Magistrate; though I confess that the mother and her group of children were more attractive to me. A lunch of hams, turkeys, fruits (Chile boasts the last all the year), pastry, ices, wines, and flowers of the most exquisite beauty and perfume, stole away nearly another hour, so that it was almost four o'clock when our cortège started from the palace. As the French Chargé had married a Santaguina, it is presumed he thought it would never answer to have the American Ambassador and his countrymen more attentive to the President than himself, and therefore joined the party; so that there were three carriages, enclosed within a troop of lancers, that of his Excellency taking the lead. All the windows and doors were crowded to see the cavalcade as it dashed by; but there was no cheering, nor a handkerchief waved in honor of the chief who had fought their battles, and had been called to the helm of state. Why? There was no one present to tell us; and we could not help thinking how unlike the receptions our own late President experienced whenever he appeared in public. Yungai being but a suburb of the capital, named after the battle-field on which this very President was the hero, the distance of the School of Arts is less than two miles from the palace. The pupils-sons of artisans, and some fifty in number-with the director, a Frenchman, awaited us in two lines at the door, the latter prepared with a preliminary harangue. The institution being wholly at the expense of the government, the young men were clad in a neat though plain uniform, and their quarters were clean and comfortable. Its origin being recent, and the engine the first erected in central if not in all Chile, the carpenters' and blacksmiths' shops and steam-engine were the only objects for inspection. A speech was made over the boiler, one of the ministers whispering to me, "What a chance for the revolutionists to send us up among your stars.' An examination of the mechanical drawings followed, some questions as to the mathematical proficiency of the pupils came next, and the show was over; though not until I strongly suspected his Excellency was nodding during the algebraic solution of a problem about two eggs. As an instrument for implanting and cultivating practical as well as theoretical knowledge-in which natives are usually too ignorant-the institution reflects the highest honor on the patriotism and liberal policy of the government; a policy most worthy of admiration and success. Our party broke up here. Each carriage wended its way homeward as inclination dictated, no small number of friends claiming the right to exercise hospitality towards us. But the sun was lending his last rosy beams to the summits of the Andes; we had our illuminations to see after as soon as a hasty dinner could be obtained; and there was no time to be lost. At an early hour the old palace fronting on the plaza, that now occupied by government (the Mint), and nearly all the churches and private buildings, were lighted, the first two very brilliantly, and the others as well as their construction will permit. It must be recollected that there are not as many windows on the streets as in our houses, and the art of transparencies had never been introduced until those suggested to the United States legation by ourselves. In one of the windows the Chilean, and in the other the American coat of arms was represented, with the flags of the two nations blended, and the words "Libertad" and "Union" inscribed. They were well executed, and very greatly admired for their novelty. But the "Star of the South" on the observatory was a gem, emblematic of our pursuits as well as complimentary to the nation whose flag bears a single one in its folds, and under whose protection we were. It was visible from the great plaza where the mass of people had assembled to witness fireworks; from that in front of the mint; from the opera-house-in short, from no place of resort could the eye be turned eastward without beholding its sparkling rays as of a mass of brilliants above the snow-crests; for darkness and the lead color of the house utterly concealed the object that sustained it. It thus commanded universal attention and admiration. Bands of music were stationed in the plaza and at every two or three squares' distance along the Cañada, and the night was such as should have tempted the population abroad long after the display of pyrotechnics terminated; but as the movements of the revolutionary Egualistas had impaired public confidence, the streets were soon after deserted, and the musicians were without auditors. On the 19th the military salutes and music which heralded the advent of a new day, and the commencement of its festivities, rendered the neighborhood of Santa Lucia far from quiet. At 10 A. M. there was a great parade in the Cañada by detached battalions of the National Guard, who subsequently moved to the broad plain south of the city, and generally called La Pampilla, though not unfrequently Campo de Marte. At a later hour all the troops (regulars and civil) were to be reviewed there by the President. This was to be the event of the day: and it was invested with more interest to the young bloods, because the Chief Magistrate had signified his determination to manoeuvre the troops himself; and it had been asserted that the conspirators would embrace the opportunity to rally known disaffected regiments, and seize his person. No President had ever availed himself of the constitutional privilege to direct the evolutions; and it was said that ineffectual attempts were made to dissuade General Bulnes, because he would be exposed to far greater danger. Every soldier had it in his power to drop a ball in his musket when the order should be given to load, and might shoot down a passing officer almost without risk of detection; but the General probably despised the exhibition of fear, and rightly judged that he would be in the position above all others which would immediately enable him to rally the loyal to government. The day was sufficiently overcast to make it pleasant when the sun shone brightly for a few minutes at a time, yet not so much obscured as to render it chilly. From an early hour the streets were alive with people, all in holiday dress; many hundreds, if not thousands, having saved their profits for months in order to make a display on the Campo de Marte. Wending towards it from every quarter were carriages which only make their appearance on this one day of the year. In many cases they were venerable relics handed down from the revolution; in others, tall spectral-looking vehicles covered with a profusion of ornamental gilding, and perched in mid-heaven; in others again, superb specimens of French or English workmanship, with all the accompaniments of modern luxury. The occupants of nearly all were dressed with that taste and elegance especially characteristic of Chilenas in public. Intermixed among them, and following guides whose high-peaked straw hats, broad-legged cotton drawers, poncho, and fifteenfeet goads made them notable, sleek oxen slowly dragged huge wagons, whilst from the interiors of the carts came notes of guitars and voices, not always of the sweetest or most melodious kind. Nevertheless, if one might judge from the mingled music and laughter, their occupants were merry parties. A little farther on were crowds of horsemen mounted on every variety of steed, from the high-blooded courser to the humble donkey; slashing caballeros with bridle and saddle mountings worth a score of golden ounces, and greasy guasos with a single sheepskin and bridle of hide; high-born donzellas with costly habits floating in the wind as they sped gracefully along, and dark-skinned guasitas with eyes like living diamonds, sitting their wild steeds with instinctive grace, and dashing over the ground with a recklessness fearful to behold. This was evidently the favorite mode of locomotion: it rendered one free; but ladies generally are afraid to attempt it, because of the racing and jostling invariably practised at this festival, and the consequent risk in such a crowd. Yet there were many of the "upper ten" among the moving mass of men; for the whole nation appear to ride well, as if intuitively. Families were collected at the doors of the houses, watching the passing crowds; the pulperias and confectionery-shops, so numerous in every street, were filled with numbers of the everthirsty and ever-hungry race; and other groups surrounded the ambulant venders who were travelling towards the pampilla with fruits, ices, and cakes. On the house-tops and doorways, on moving wagons, and even on the trees, fluttered flags and pennons of every variety. Indeed, the head of one of our horses was decorated with a miniature Chile banner; the other with the stars and stripes of our own country. A cheerful and animated scene it was, notwithstanding it led through mud and among wretched hovels between the centre of population and the outskirts. From these very ranchos issued many of its gaily dressed participators. Our party comprised three young ladies and myself in a close carriage, two gentlemen in a birlocho, and four others on horseback. Those mounted were to scour the field and serve as pilots to such portions of it as were offering scenes of interest approachable by the carriages. Already some six or seven thousand troops had assembled when we arrived, shortly after noon; artillery, infantry, lancers, and dragoons stretching over the plain for more than a mile, and kept by pickets of mounted municipal police within lines which visitors were not permitted to traverse. Beyond the square thus formed by the military, and within which it was intended to manœuvre them, carts were drawn up with booths and tents at every few paces, hastily erected, so as to form a sort of street, through which the carriages and equestrians paraded. Outside the booths, in deeply-dug trenches, cooks were busy roasting whole sheep and great pieces of beef, on spits of wood lying across earthen walls. And beyond all these were tethered the oxen or mules that had transported the population of the capital to the festival, their piles of edibles, and the barrels of drink necessary for more than twenty thousand souls. Stopping, as they often did, to witness various scenes, or to interchange salutations with friends, the multitude of carriages and mounted riders moved with difficulty within the busy mass, and at times were actually at a stand in the almost inextricable confusion necessarily |