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then take off the break-iron, B. Fig. 6 shows the position and the angle, and also the way to hold the iron when it is on the hone. Fig. 5 shows the irons when ready to be put into the stock. To disengage the irons from the stock, strike a couple of moderate blows on the stock at A, Fig. 4, with the mallet (Fig. 7); if this do not loosen them, tap the wedge on either side alternately, and, when sufficiently slack, it can be withdrawn by the fingers.

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In putting the wedge into its place, one or two slight taps with the mallet will fix it; if much force be used, most likely the stock will split, or be otherwise distorted. The cutting edge of the iron should project through the base of the stock only sufficient to be noticeable when looking along the plane. The A tool-maker price of the plane will be about 3s. 6d. to 4s., or perhaps less. will grind this for a penny. Do not buy a second-hand plane, or it will be found on inspection that all the cutting edge has been ground away, and the plane useless.

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The joiner's hammer (Fig 8) is a tool which every boy knows when he sees it; it will, therefore, be unnecessary to give a lengthy description of it. In holding The face should be about three-quarters of an inch diameter. the hammer, the hand should be very near the end of the handle. When driving in a nail, two or three light strokes will effectively start it, and it can then be driven home with greater force.

A two-feet rule (Fig. 9) is most handy for general use, marked off to inches and eighths. The price is Is. 3d., made of box-wood.

A

FIG. 9.

The set-square is represented in Fig. 10.

FIG. 10.

This tool is for marking off a

line at right angles to the edge of a plank, or any other place where a line is

required at right angles. A 12-in. blade is the best size. Price 3s. 6d. The blade, A, is made of steel; the frame, B, of ebony-wood. There are three brass pins to hold the blade in its place.

The two chisels, Figs. 11 and 12, are required for ordinary carpentering: one,

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one-eighth of an inch broad, for cutting dovetails, the other about three-quarters of an inch. An edge is given to these in the same way as the plane. Price 6d. and 10d.

The screw-driver is for putting screws into wood. The breadth of the tool where it enters the screw's head should be three-eighths of an inch broad. This tool has not a sharp edge. Price 9d.

The marking-gauge, Fig. 13, is for marking parallel lines from the edge of a plank or other piece of wood. A is a pencil or scriber, B is a set-screw to adjust the gauge. Price, in pear-wood, about 8d.

The gimlet, Fig. 14, is a tool for boring holes, but, as it is very apt to split the wood when used near the edge, great care is necessary. It is generally best to use the brace and bit anywhere near the edge of the wood. The gimlet is more liable to split hard wood than soft. 3d. is about the price of a gimlet. The brace and bits, Fig. 15, is another boring tool: it is used for boring holes from one-eighth of an inch to three-quarters of an inch in diameter. This tool cuts a very neat and clean hole. The bit, A, Fig. 15, fits into a square socket

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in the brace. The left hand is placed on the top of the brace, and the right hand on the crank, B, by which a circular motion is given to the bit. The top figure is a rose-bit, and is used for sinking the heads of nails or screws. The price of a brace as shown in the drawing is about 2s. 3d. Black bits, 4d. each; bright bits, 5d. each. The bright bits are recommended.

The "bench-dog," Fig. 16, is an improved arrangement of the bench-stop (B, Fig. 1). There is a screw for raising the stop. Price 35. each.

The gouge is a very similar tool to the chisel; instead of cutting a flat suríace, it cuts a semicircular groove. It is not a very easy tool to handle, but it is a very useful one.

There are many other tools than those described and illustrated, which an experienced carpenter would require. These few pages teach but the first lesson to the young carpenter in his apprenticeship. There is the Jack-plane, for bringing the rough wood to a level surface; the lock-saw, for cutting circular work, and various other planes and saws; the spoke-shave, &c.

Let all the materials you use in carpentry be good. Durable work cannot be made with green timber. The best work will be worthless if you do not get well-seasoned wood. For different purposes, different woods are chosen. Oak will stand all weathers without being much affected. Elm will endure in wet situations better than other woods. Ash is a very tough and also a very flexible wood: it is, perhaps, the best if wanted to stand a sudden strain. Pine or deal is more largely used in carpentry than any other wood, on account of its cheapness. For cabinet-work the beech is much used; for ornamental turning, box-wood, coromandel, and other hard woods are used.

HOW TO MAKE A TOOL-BOX.

A handy and convenient size for a tool-box is 2 ft. long, 21 in. broad, and 101⁄2 in. deep. The material required for this will be enumerated below. 12 ft. of 2-in. pine-wood 11 in. broad. The price of this will be 2d. per foot i pair of hinges (or iron butts as they are called by the trade); price 2d. per pair.

12 screws for ditto, 1⁄2 in. long; Id. per dozen.

I pennyworth of brads.

(See Fig. 17.)

I pennyworth of glue.

I lock and key (iron).

FIG. 17.

When buying the wood, ask for "insides." The first thing to be done is to cut the wood into proper lengths and dimensions. The pieces required will be For the sides of the box, 2 pieces 241⁄2 in. long.

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These dimensions should be marked off on the plank before cutting with a rule and pencil. The two sides and the two ends should now be planed on both sides, and the top and bottom edges planed true and square. The breadth of the wood will now be 101⁄2 in.

The best joint for a box is the "dovetail joint." Fig. 18 shows the side with the "dovetail" cut. Fig. 19 the end with the "points" cut. Fig. 20 shows the dovetail joint finished.

To make the dovetail joint, proceed as follows: On one of the sides of the box mark off lines with the square 2 ft. apart, also mark off lines 23 in. apart, call these lines a and b (Fig. 21). Mark on the line a points every inch and half-inch alternately; on the line b mark off a point seven eighths of an inch from b, and then points for every six-eighths of an inch.

Now draw lines from the points on line a to the points on line b (Fig. 22). Cut with a tenon-saw from c to d, and from e to f, treating each dovetail in the same way. With a chisel cut the piece out so as to form a dovetail, as in

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Fig. 18. The pins are now to be drawn to correspond with the dovetails, which can be done by placing the dovetails just made over the end of the short sides, or ends, and marking them with a pencil. When this is done, make lines 20 in. apart; cut the pins down to this line with the tenon-saw. In cutting the pins, cut outside the pencil lines. The space between can now be cut out with a chisel.

When all the pieces have been done in this manner they should be coated with thin glue, and then hammered well together. When dry, the projecting ends of the pins and dovetails may be trimmed off with a chisel. This is called the "carcase" of the box.

The bottom of the box is to be put in next. Plane up the two pieces 24 in. long by 11 in. broad, and fit them neatly in the " carcase." They should be nailed from outside the box (Fig. 23).

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The lid pieces are planed up next, so as to fit outside the "carcase." Fig. 24 is the box when finished; A is a piece of wood 2 in. deep nailed on the lid to keep it square on the box; B B is a beading of wood nailed on the box to make a strong base, and also to protect the edges from chipping.

A DOG-KENNEL, AND HOW TO MAKE IT.

A dog-kennel, as everybody knows, may be almost any size and any shape -as of course the kennel that suits Master Pup, the terrier, will not suit Sir Growler, the Newfoundland. However, suppose Master Pup requires a new house: it must not be made too small or too large, for if made the former,

poor doggy will get the cramp in his legs, or if it be made the latter, he will feel cold and uncomfortable, and will want a whole truss of straw to keep him

warm.

Fig. 25 is about a nice roomy kennel for a terrier. If the kennel be required for a larger or smaller dog, the size can be altered to suit it, by increasing or reducing all the dimensions in proportion to the required size. It has a hole

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I in. in diameter over the doorway in front, and also one of the same size at the back this will establish a draught, to carry off any bad air, which always accumulates at the highest point. If the kennel be made this size, 2-in. pinewood will be sufficient, but, if made larger, 1-in. wood may be used. Materials required:

in.

FIG. 26.

38 ft. 2-in. pine-wood, 11 in. broad. 2d. per ft.
4 doz. 2-in. brads (Fig. 27.)

3 doz. I in. (Fig. 26.)

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2 doz. 34-in. screws.

2 in...

FIG. 27.

The floor of the kennel is the first thing to be made, because the whole after work is erected from it. Cut two pieces from the plank with the tenon-saw, 2 ft. 111⁄2 in. long; plane this on one side and the edges. Also cut two pieces 20 in. long by 51⁄2 in. broad; plane these up nicely on all sides. pieces for the bottom are now to be placed as in Fig. 28.

The two

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The pieces 20 in. by 54 in., are screwed on with 34-in. screws; this holds the two bottom pieces firmly together. Cut a piece off the plank 3 ft. 9 in. long, and plane it up to 10%1⁄2 in. broad; then cut it diagonally across, as Fig. 29. This forms the back of the kennel, and should be nailed on the bottom with

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