connect the mark on the top line with these individual distinguishing marks, and the stem for the bow, and the stern-post for the stern, and then the design will be complete. Carefully ascertain these lines, and having done so, cut out moulds in wood (see the figures in the middle of the engraving) to assist in shaping the model, or rather to enable you to know that you have shaped it according to design. We will now suppose that an oblong piece of wood, perfectly rectangular, is the block from which the model is to be cut or built. Upon the top surface draw the whole plan of the deck, merely turning over the half-deck plan, which has been already prepared, and repeating it. Mark the divisions shown on the sheer plan on each side of the block, and, after cutting away by means of plane knife all such part of the block as is not comprehended in the area of the deck, mark the sheer plan with the divisions on either side of the block; strike a centre-line for the keel on the bottom of the piece, and a centre-line on either of the transverse sections, to mark stem and stern. Cut out the remainder of the model according to the divisions, taking care not to cut more deeply or less deeply than is warranted by the moulds, which should be constantly used to gauge the work. If the object be merely to cut out a block execution of the design, all that is required, after due care taken to have all the distances and measurements properly ascertained, is to cut out in strict accordance with the moulds as prepared from the design, and to affix keel, false keel, stem, cutwater, and stern-post. If, however, the object be to build a model, it may be attained in one of two ways. The first is by following the above-mentioned rules, and, having arrived at the stage where the shape of the vessel has been ascertained, to cut out planks for the building of the ship, by simply sawing through the horizontal lines at each transverse division, and then cutting away the inside portion till it assumes the thickness and consistency of the required planks. These planks, having already the bend and curve required, can then be fastened together again, and secured inside by iron or copper bands running across them. They may also be affixed to beams or crutches running across and between the sides. This, however, is a lazy way of building, and one not to be encouraged; the block system is better than it. But the plan most deserving of encouragement is that by which, the design of sides, bow, and stern having been agreed upon and expressed in the manner described above, the execution is done by a regular legitimate system of ship-building-a plan requiring, no doubt, much skill and tact, and not suitable, perhaps, to quite small models; but one which is not only better adapted to the construction of models of the larger sort, but also more commendabie and more interesting. Lay down the keel, with uprights inserted in it, at each of the spots indicated by the division-lines in the sheer plan. Fix also a stem and a stern-post. Secure by dovetailing, rabbiting, or even by means of needle-points, to each of the uprights a transverse beam of the same length as is shown to be the breadth intended by the design for the ship's beam at the several divisions. Connect these with each other and with the stem and stern by means of slight battens or veneers fastened on with needle-points, taking care that each needlepoint is sent well home, and that each cross-beam and the connecting-batten are close together. Instead of making moulds in the manner directed above, make stout ribs broad enough to allow of two sets of planks being fastened into them in accordance with the same directions; fix these into the keel, and connect them firmly with the cross-beams and their connecting-batten. You have then the skeleton or frame of the ship. Upon it fasten by such means as are available the previously prepared planks or thin pieces of wood, taking care that each plank is well secured and strictly in accordance with the mould of the ship, as shown by the design. Hot water will be found a ready means of making the wood bend: steep the wood in the water till it becomes pliable, and fasten it on while warm. Particular care must be taken to fix the leading head-planks into the stem, and they should be connected by means of rivets, which may be of wire only, running through the stem and clenched on either side. It will be better to build the stern in separate pieces, apart from the side timbers, which in that case will end at the stern-frame. Too great care cannot be taken in cutting the planks to the exact size required. Any carelessness in this respect may cause difficulty in fitting on the timbers, especially below. In addition to the support derived from the frame, there should be connectinggirders of wood, or, better still, of tin plate cut into strips, running up and down the inner face of the timbers, to which they should be bolted. If these directions be carefully attended to there will be no difficulty in actually building the hull. That having been done, a false keel, which is as well if made of lead, must be fitted, together with a cutwater, carved in accordance with the design, and a rudder-post. Each of these parts must be carefully and securely fixed with the stoutest material the parts will bear, and then the model will be complete so far as shipwright work can make her so. She must now be caulked, and the readiest mode of doing this, in all but extremely large models, is as follows: Stop the scams externally with soft wax and white lead, or with a strong infusion of shellac in naphtha-the former is better-and over the whole of the inner surface pour molten tar. The tar will find its way into all the crevices and will pay itself over all the seams, rendering the craft water-tight. Decks can be laid down in planks, or in one or two whole pieces. The latter plan is better, as not only will it be found difficult to caulk the deck seams enough to make them water-tight, but the cross-beams of the frame on which the planks must be nailed will not, unless they be bulky and in the way, bear the insertion of so many fastenings. Holes must be cut in the deck for the masts, and before the deck is laid a bed should be prepared in the hold on the top of the keel, in which the foot of the mast may rest. In the case of the model cut out in one piece from the block, the interior may be hollowed out with a sharp chisel or gouge, care being taken not to pierce the sides. A pocket-knife will serve the purpose in the event of a chisel being wanting; but the work will take longer and will not be so cleanly done. A passage must also be cut in the deck and after-timber for the rudder-head to come through. The bulwarks may consist only of brass or iron stanchions, with chain or rope connecting them, just sufficient to keep the crew from falling overboard; or they may consist of timber-built defences against the ingress of the sea. If the latter, gangways must be cut in them on either side. Deck furnishings will consist of skylights, covered companion, and gratings, with covers for the hatchways. The capstan should be set up forward, just abaft and clear of the bowsprit. On the fore and after quarters should be fitted davits, or curved irons having the bend outwards, from which should be suspended the quarter boats. The long boat will be inboard between the fore-mast and the main-mast; and sometimes from davits hanging over the stern a small dingy is suspended. On either side, immediately below the gangway, wooden steps should be fastened at short intervals down to the water's edge, to allow of the feet resting when the visitor has to get on board by means of the man-ropes. At the foot of each mast, and enclosing it within its square, should be four sets of belaying-pins let into bulks of wood, which should be firmly connected with each other. At all convenient places inside the bulwarks belaying-pinracks should also be set up. MASTS, SPARS, AND RIGGING. The sizes and shapes of these will, of course, depend upon the character of the vessel to be fitted, whether ship, barque, brig, brigantine, cr schooner. Annexed are tables showing the dimensions usually assigned to the masts and spars of the vessels mentioned. (See pp. 439, 440.) From these tables some idea can be formed as to the size of the masts and spars to be fitted in the miniature copies of ship, barque, &c. The annexed engraving shows better than could be described verbally the whole of the standing rigging and some of the running gear of a FULL-RIGGED SHIP. The gear connected with the sails, some of which only is given here, may be briefly described as follows: Spanker, on the mizzen-mast. The gaff is secured to either side of the taffrail by two vangs. The topping-lift, No. 19, running from the throat of the gaff to the end of the boom, is for the purpose of lifting the boom. The sheet is the rope between the two vangs, and holds the boom in its place. The tack fastens the inner lower corner of the spanker to the boom. From the top outer corner of the sail a rope runs through a block on the mast and so down to the deck, and is called the down-haul, being used to assist in taking in the sail. From the outer edge of the sail, about half-way down, and again one yet lower down, run ropes across the sail through blocks on the mast, which are called brails, their use being to aid in brailing up or taking in the spanker. The out-haul is fast to the outer lower corner of the sail, and running through a sheave in the end of the boom, enables the sail to be pulled out. Try-sail, sometimes fitted on to the main-mast, resembles a spanker in every respect except that it has no boom. SQUARE SAILS AND YARDS. The halyards, running through fixed blocks on the masts, serve to hoist the yards. Lifts, No. 11, are of chain or rope, and are fast to either yard-arm; they run through blocks on the top above, and so reach the deck: they keep the yard in its place, and are used for topping it up or down. Braces, No. 14, are fast to the ends of the yard, and meeting in a block secured to the opposite mast, come down upon deck, and are used to pull the yard nearer, or otherwise, to the ship. Foot-lines are lines secured to the yards, and are for the sailors to stand on when reefing, or lying out on the yard. Stirrups are stout lines made fast to the yard and holding the foot-lines at intervals. Bunt-lines (there are four on each side of the lower sails) are lines fast to the bottom of the sail and running up in two triangles to the yard; they run through a block about half-way down it, and through a block on the mast: they are used to trip up the sail when furling. Leech-lines (these and the bunt-lines are on the fore side of the sail) are single lines running from either side of the sail, about two-thirds down, through a block on each end of the yard, and so down to the (Continued on p. 442.) |