over the opposing strand next before it, f, and stick it in between that and the next, e (which must be lifted up by a pointed piece of wood or iron called a marlingspike). Pass it under e and up between e and d. Treat all six strands in a similar manner. If great strength is required, pass them all a second time. When the ends reappear, untwist each into yarns; cut out half of each yarn; twist up the yarns again; then pass the six reduced strands once more, and cut off the ends. This is to taper the splice, to make it more sightly (Fig. 37). If the description seems obscure, try it as you read: the principle is to embed or burrow each strand of A into the substance of B, and vice versa. Splicing large rope is very hard work. An EYE SPLICE (Fig. 38) is easily made by any one who has mastered the short splice, the difference being that you have only the strands of one rope to work in amongst the strands of its own "standing part." Both these splices should be parcelled and served if exposed to wet. The LONG SPLICE is stronger and more elegant than the short splice, and must be used if the rope has to run through pulleys, &c., as it does not increase its thickness. Unlay a much greater length of each rope than is shown in Fig. 36; inter-lock or “crutch" the strands as before. Now untwist a still further for several whole turns along its own rope A, which will then consist, so to speak, of two strands and a vacancy. Into the vacant space left by the removal of a lay the corresponding strand, f, of the opposite rope (Fig. 36); twist ftighter as you lay it in A, for part of its length is now composed of two strands of its own, b and c, and one of its neighbour's, f. At the point where the untwisting of a ceases-and where, of course, the laying in of ƒ ceases also -join a and ƒ; cut off all but a few inches of each; untwist them, and cut off about one-fourth of the yarns from each. Tie the reduced strands with an overhand knot (as in Fig. 39), which must be coaxed into the vacant place as neatly as possible; beyond the knot reduce a and ƒ by another fourth; pass the end of a over ƒ and the end of ƒ over a, and each under the two next strands (Fig. 40): when you have well stretched the rope, cut off the ends where they appear. Sometimes the two are reduced by half before knotting; sometimes the extreme end is reduced to a fourth, and “stuck" once more. In the same way work one of A's strands-say b-into the rope B, untwisting d to make room for it, and joining them like a and f. You will now have e and to dispose of. Reduce them, and tie their ends together like the others, but at the original point of junction, without laying them into either rope: your three pair of strands will now be united at three different points in the rope, some distance apart, and there will be no material increase of thickness. A GROMMET (see engraving in the article on Sailing)—is a rope ring made by unlaying one strand from a rope. Form a bight of the required size at one end, and work the loose end twice round it, following the natural crevices of the strand. You will now have a solid three-strand rope in the form of a ring, and a pair of ends to join. Join them by an overhand knot, first tapering them, and "stick" the ends just as in a long splice. Sailors have many ornamental knots for finishing the ends of ropes, to prevent the strands from separating: amongst others are the Matthew Walker, the Single Wall, the Single Wall Crowned, the Double Wall, the Double Wall Double Crowned, the Single Diamond, the Double Diamond, the Stopper Knot, and others, which space does not admit of our describing. All the knots and splices in common use we have given, and the reader may be sure that few pieces of stray information repay the trouble of learning—and practising -better than a knowledge of the Art of Cordage. I hammer, I peck rubbish-basket, I draw-hoe, I dibble, I rake, I small pair of shears, I 3-foot rod, I pair pruning-scissors, 1 garden-knife, I wooden basket for seeds, &c., I wooden mallet, and an apron with a pocket in front, for carrying bass or any small article. If the tools can be kept in a sheltered spot near the garden during the summer months, it would be an advantage; in the winter, when not required, they should be taken indoors, and, after being cleaned, the parts liable to rust should be oiled with a brush and marked, for sake of distinction, with the initials. It would be well to be provided with a good deal box, divided into compartments, for containing the small tools and other sundries, as flower-sticks, labels, pegs, bass, string, nails, shreds, tallies, and seeds, which should be properly arranged, so as to allow of ready access to them in the busy season. Having had a plot of ground allotted to you, the next thing is to consider how you shall form your garden; and the gratification of your taste must be determined by the space at your disposal. The edgings on each side of your main walks should be of such a kind that, in case of heavy rain, they would prevent the soil being washed into the walks. Box edgings are not desirable, as, from frequent raking and brushing, they are apt to decay; thus gaps are left here and there, which can only be properly replaced by planting the whole afresh. Bricks or burrs are to be discarded. A rustic edge formed of round pieces of wood, cut in equal lengths, and fastened in close together with a mallet, is good and easily repaired. Ivy and all kinds of growing edges harbour slugs, snails, and other varieties of de structive vermin. If you can afford it, buy some of the ornamental tile-bordering for flower-gardens; it can be had at the principal potteries. With care it will last for years. If you have sufficient space for flower-beds, let them be of the oval and circle shape. A raised bed or mound in the centre of the garden for growing flowers would be a relief to the flat surface. The size and number of the beds must accord with the extent of your garden. With flower-beds you can better harmonize the colours by massing them; that is, supposing you to have a piece of ground each side of the centre plot, these portions could be devoted to the culture of the chrysanthemum, herbaceous plants, &c. If you have not this advantage, it would be better to dispense with beds, and plant on the mixed system, practising as much method as possible in the arrangements of colour, height, season of flowering, &c., so as to have few blank spots throughout the year. If you design beds, there will be no need to employ the same labour and materials in making the walks that encircle the beds as in the case of the divisions. A slight coat of gravel to distinguish them would suffice, as it is possible that in the following season you may alter your plan. This can be more readily accomplished if the walks are not made for permanent use. The edgings round the beds could be made of a very hardy plant, viz., Cerastemum tomentosum, which can be propagated in the spring by division, and planted two inches apart. It will increase and spread very fast. Do not let it flower, but keep it evenly clipped with the shears both in width and height. You need not afterwards disturb it, except for the purpose of reducing it. Should there be a fence, wall, or similar shelter in the rear of your garden, you might construct a rustic arbour; in the absence of such an advantage, you could form a back with little difficulty of upright stakes well secured in the ground; the sides the same; but the roof should be willow or ash stakes, if you can procure them, as they bend to any shape. If the ends of the stakes which are inserted in the ground could be dipped in tar previously, it would preserve them for a greater length of time. In splicing the stakes, notch the parts where you tie them together; the same with the stiff rods used as cross supports to the upright. Having erected the arbour, you should make a seat inside, where in the hot days of summer you might read and study. The flooring can be made of small stones, collected at your convenience, and may be formed into some device. You have now to consider what species of climbing plant you will select for covering the arbour. Hops are very pretty and rpaid in growth; but they often become so infested in the autumn with green fly, as to make them very unpleasant to handle. As annuals, nasturtiums, Convolvulus major, and scarlet runner are suitable. For permanent growth, the white clematis planted on one side and an Ayrshire rose on the other would have a pleasing effect. The latter is very thorny, but its flowers are very fragrant; and, after it has covered the intended space, you can bud choice varieties on it with success. Fernery. Each side of the arbour you can raise a mound of earth. The under portion could be composed of any rubbish which makes a good drainage; over this you may form a rockwork, either with stones, blocks of wood, stumps of trees, or any similar material that can be obtained. On this, when finished, you could plant a collection of ferns. They do not require a great depth of soil, but like their roots screened from the scorching rays of the sun; their fronds develope themselves luxuriantly in shady nooks; though fond of moisture, they dislike being saturated. Syringing or watering them with a fine rose at the close of a warm summer day is what they delight in. The ferns in the following list are perfectly hardy; they require but ordinary attention, and are well adapted for a beginner: Asplenium Adiantum nigrum. Lastrea dilatata. Polypodium vulgare. Snowdrops may be planted along the edge of the fernery, and a few British primroses intermixed among the ferns; these would flower early, and be quite in character with the situation. The subjoined plan is a sketch and ground plan of the kind of garden we have been treating of. Of course situation and other circumstances so far vary that you might not be able to adopt this style, still you may derive such lessons from it as will assist you in carrying out a different design. Having executed your plans in the formation of the garden, and quite prepared it for the reception of plants, you must now consider how you shall furnish it with those kind of plants that will make it attractive and interesting. not only at the present but at all seasons, and that you may do so we will begin with the year, and say something of what is to be done in every month of it. JANUARY is a month in which very little can be done out of doors, unless you can on favourable days benefit the soil by digging in any leaves or other WALL OR FENCE FERNERY ARBOR FERNERY nutritious substances you may have collected in a heap during the autumn in some out-of-the-way corner. If not sufficiently decayed, you had better turn it over three or four times with your fork before you use it. In digging, the rougher you leave the soil for the present, the more will it be benefited in the future. Be careful not to disturb crocuses, snowdrops, or any other bulbous roots you may have planted, as they are fast pushing upwards, especially the snowdrops. It is to be hoped that you have marked their positions by carefully-written labels. If you have any plants whose roots are likely to be injured by the frost, as hardy fuchsias or tea-scented roses, cover them with some coal-ashes. MAIN WALK BORDER FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS & HERBACEOUS PLANTS. GROUND PLAN OF GARDEN. BORDER FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS & HERBACEOUS PLANTS. MAIN WALK Your leisure time in the house should be employed in making pegs with sharp points from old birch brooms, making and painting flower-sticks, and preparing labels, as in a few weeks you will be requiring them. During the summer months you will have kept a memorandum of any improvements that may have been suggested to you: now is the period to prepare for carrying them out. Do not clear away the decayed fronds or leaves that may be deposited on the surface of the fernery, as they are a protection to the future fronds. A little earth sifted over them will prevent them being scattered by the wind. If you have a small frame for keeping calceolarias, stocks, &c., it would be a great help. Protect them by coverings from severe frost, but on all fine days admit air and pick off withered leaves. FEBRUARY.--Let your spare moments be employed in the same way as recommended last month. Any bulbs, such as tulips, &c., that are not planted, should be during the first fortnight of this month. MARCH. You may now divide any perennial and herbaceous plants which you may wish to lessen or increase. Never let any of this kind of plants get too large, because they rob the soil of its nutritious properties. No garden is complete without that beautiful autumnal flower, the chrysanthemum. Now is the season to propagate it. The dwarf or pompone varieties are most desirable for small gardens, because they flower early and in more profusion than the larger varieties. Three or four rooted pieces will make a good patch; but, if you cannot obtain that number, one will do, as, by stopping the shoots at intervals till the beginning of July, it will make a nice plant. They are fond of plenty of water, and rich manure applied to their roots during the growing The following list includes a few good sorts: season. Name. Bijou d'Horticultur Capella Colour. Sulphur white. Red chestnut. White tipped with blush. |