THE MERCHANTS DURING THE LAST WAR EXPORTED PILCHARDS TO THE WEST INDIES. may demand their aid. During the late war with France, the Italian ports being shut against us, induced the adventurers and merchants to explore a new market. This they found among the planters in the West Indies, who have occasionally purchased considerable quantities for the support of their slaves. The length of the voyage, and the heat of the climate, have however rendered some expensive precautions necessary. Instead of being closely pressed, and packed in loose barrels, it has been found necessary to carry them to market in tight casks filled with pickle. In some cases this adventure has been successful; but as a permanent market the consumption is not equal to the supply which the county can afford. The return of peace has re-opened the markets on the continent; and from the demands which have already been made, the intercourse promises to be again established in all its former prosperity. CHAP. XIII. Geographical Situation, General Appearance, Vegetable Productions, Soils, Landholders, Agricultural Resources, and Public Roads. SECTION 1. Boundaries, Extent, Situation, Atmosphere, variable Weather, Rains, temperature of the Seasons, Influence on Vegetation, Storms. THE county of Cornwall, which is nearly bounded by water, is washed on its northern shores by the Bristol Channel, and on its southern by the British. On the east it is nearly separated from Devonshire by the Tamar, so that with the exception of a few miles, where an artificial boundary is extended, Cornwall may be almost considered as an island. Being widest in its eastern extremity, and growing more narrow as it advances towards the west, the form which the land assumes may not improperly be said to resemble a cornucopia. In the parish of Moorwinstow, about four miles from the north channel, there is a tenement called Shorston. On the outskirts of this tenement, on an extended common called Shorston Moor, Cornwall is divided from the parish of Bradworthy in Devonshire, by a hedge about forty yards to the east, then by another hedge about a quarter of a mile long from the parish of Hartland; it then joins the parish of Wellcombe, from which it is divided also by a hedge about a mile in length, extending to Goosham Mill, where a small stream supplies its place, and continues to divide Cornwall from Devon, from this place to the northern sea. All the other parts of Cornwall, with a few exceptions already noticed, are divided from Devon by the waters of the Tamar, which rise also on Shorston Moor, and flow onwards to the south. The parishes which come in contact with the western extremities of Devonshire, are Moorwinstow, Kilkhampton, Launcells, Bridgerule, Whitstone, North Tamerton, Boyton, Week St. Mary, Jacobstow, Warbstow, Tremaine, Tresmeere, Egloskerry, St. Stephens by Launceston, Lawhitton, Lezant, Calstock, Stokeclimsland, St. Dominick, Pillaton, Landulph, St. Stephens near Saltash, Antony, St. John's, Maker, and Rame. The length of this county, according to Gascoyne's map, which is very exact in the outlines, though incorrect in the names and positions of many places, is 4 M VOL. I. LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE OF THE MOST CONSPICUOUS LANDS IN CORNWALL. sixty-nine miles measured in a direct middle line from the Land's End to Harwood in the parish of Calstock. Its extreme breadth, measured from the Rame Head to Shorston, is forty-six. From Tintagel Castle to Pallant Point, is twenty-seven ; and from St. Ives to Marazion, which, without including the influx of the tides, is the most narrow part of the county, the whole extent does not exceed six miles. The whole circumference, from the vast irregularity of the shores, is difficult to ascertain; but according to prevailing opinion, it is estimated at 200 miles; while its utmost length from the extremity of Moorwinstow to the Land's End, is not less than ninety miles. Martin however, in his map, which was made from an actual survey, states the extreme length at no more than seventy-eight miles. To ascertain the latitude and longitude of the most conspicuous lands in Cornwall, many efforts have been made; but scarcely any two accounts have perfectly concurred. Martin considers the Lizard to be in latitude 49 deg. 45 min. north, and in longitude 5 deg. 36 min. west of London; but Dr. Halley conceives the former to be 49 deg. 55 min. and the latter 5 deg. 30 min. The Land's End Martin supposes to be in latitude 49 deg. 56 min. and in longitude 6 deg. 6 min. ; Dr. Halley fixes the former at 50 deg. 5 min. and the latter at 6 deg. 7 min. But the difference in these calculations is inconsiderable; in the latitude of the Lizard, Tonkin concurs with Martin; but he determines its longitude in 3 deg. 44 min. ; and that of the Land's End to be in 6 deg. only; and Hartland Point in 4 deg. 35 min. west of London. From these calculations he concludes, that the county of Cornwall is situated between 50 and 51 deg. of north latitude, and between 4 and 6 deg. west longitude. The air of Cornwall, though not wholly free from noxious vapours, is less impregnated with unwholesome effluvia than that in most other counties. The fogs which occasionally load the atmosphere are of short duration, and very rarely spread themselves at once over any considerable tract of country. The air must therefore be esteemed pure and balsamic, notwithstanding the saline particles which it acquires from the contiguous seas. In most parts of Cornwall, the air thus impregnated, corrodes iron in a short time, but more particularly towards the sea; completely devouring the bars and frames of windows, and checking in many places the progress of vegetation in plants, shrubs, and trees. It quickly tarnishes the lustre of any highly polished metals, and takes from glue the power of retaining its adhesive qualities for any considerable length of time. But although our rains are frequent, as we have no bogs, lakes, or morasses of any considerable magnitude, no noxious exhalations can arise from stagnant pools; and having no extensive forests which might obstruct the free circulation of the breezes, the air suffers nothing from these impediments, or from continued calms. DELIGHTFUL SITUATION AND CLIMATE OF PENZANCE, THE MONTPELIER OF ENGLAND. The diversity of hills and vales, of bays, projecting rocks and promontories, with which Cornwall abounds, cannot fail to intercept and to collect every current of atmosphere that moves within the range of its latitude and longitude. Both calms and vapours are therefore prevented from remaining till they produce pernicious effects; so that neither the saltness which the air acquires, nor the mineral evaporations by which it might otherwise be tainted, are permitted to render it so insalubrious as to be injurious to the life of man. Mr. Carew has observed, that "the air of Cornwall is better adapted to preserve health than to recover it; especially in case of any languishing disease, with which strangers are affected." In certain instances this may be true; but fact and experience teach in general a very different lesson. The temperature of the atmosphere, the mildness of the seasons, the beauty of the prospect, and the exhilarating purity of the gentle breezes which play upon the bosom of the waters, and scatter health upon the shores, have conferred on Penzance and its vicinity, a degree of celebrity, which few persons who have visited this neighbourhood, will think injudiciously bestowed. To this place many valetudinarians annually resort, and the benefits they receive, leave them in general but little reason to regret their journies. It is not without sufficient reason that Penzance has been denominated the Montpelier of England. Approximating almost to an island, of no considerable dimensions, Cornwall may naturally be supposed to enjoy and to suffer all the vicissitudes peculiar to such insular situations. The weather is accordingly very variable, and more exposed to sudden transitions than the inhabitants of any other county in England experience. As steams are perpetually arising, both from the land and the water, and entering the atmosphere from these distinct elements, it is obvious, that the air will become more or less humid, in proportion as the neighbouring land or water shall happen to prevail. In the vicinity of Cornwall the area of water greatly preponderates; and as a natural consequence, rains descend in copious quantities through every season of the year. Hence it frequently occurs, that while other parts of England suffer from drought in the summer season, the lands of Cornwall suffer little or no inconvenience. The rains however, are rather frequent than violent; and they rarely do much mischief by the inundations they occasion. This may in no small degree be attributed to the narrowness of the county, the height of the land in the interior, the rapid descent from thence to the sea, and the shortness of the passage which the rivers have to accomplish, before their waters are discharged. Nor can we view these diversified operations of natural causes, without beholding the superlative wisdom of that Being by whom natural causes are regulated. In open and flat countries, where no rapid declivities are to be found to carry off the REASONS WHY THE WEATHER IN CORNWALL IS SO REMARKABLY CHANGEABLE. collecting waters, the same quantities that fall in Cornwall would deluge the surface, and lay it generally under water. The same quantity of rain on the contrary, that in a champaign district would be sufficient to preserve and promote vegetation, would consign, in Cornwall, the surface of the earth in many places to barrenness and desolation. For as the irregularity of the land permits all the water, except that which immediately enters the earth, to descend into the vales, a cessation of rain must operate as a suspension of moisture, and be productive of all those fatal effects which the Divine Wisdom has now prevented. The uncertainty of the weather in Cornwall has long since become proverbial. The winds by which the clouds are propelled and supported, having but a short passage across the county, soon remove these sources of rain; and immediately after a severe shower, the sun frequently shines forth with an additional splendour. These sudden changes have given rise to this homely distich : "Each day in the year The sun doth appear." The truth however, of the sentiment thus expressed, is far more questionable than that of some other provincial rhymes, which mark the progress of fogs, and anticipate the effects they will produce. Hence "A mist from the sea Brings heat in the day; In the neighbourhood of St. Austell there is another homely distich, which expresses a presage of approaching rain. It is expressed as follows: "When Carn-Grey Rock doth wear a hood, Let Garker Moor beware a flood." All these localities are founded upon the instability and precarious state of the weather in Cornwall. The seasons, though far from being regular in their degrees of heat and cold, are more uniform than the weather. These in general are much milder than in any other parts of England. In the winter season myrtles survive its rigour, unless the cold be unusually severe; and even when the nipping frost destroys its branches, the root in general retains the principle of vegetation, and in the ensuing spring, when the decayed limbs are cut off, sprouts again as vigorous as before. Some instances have occurred, in which the frost has continued for many weeks; and in a few solitary winters, the snow has remained in great depth for a considerable season, on the inland parts. Cornwall is almost a total stranger |