APPENDIX No. I.

HEREIN is given a list of the usual specifications for building a cottage. This, of course, can only be done in a general manner; and the specifications must be applied to the requirements of any particular plan by the person who makes out the working drawings for the building of the cottage: and in the following specifications the words, "as shown in the plan," refer to those drawings. Considerable latitude may also be allowed in the scantlings of carpenter's work, and other dimensions; and where dimensions are given in these specifications, it merely means that such dimensions will answer the purpose, although in many instances others may do equally well.

EXCAVATOR.

Dig out the trenches for the foundations to the depth and width shown on the plans.

Dig out under the floor ift. 6in. deep, if so required.

Or, Fill in above the ground to the level of the floor. (See P. 37.)

Dig out for the rain-water tank the size required. (A tank 5ft. by 5ft. by 6ft. deep inside measure will do well for a single cottage; 5ft. by 10ft. by 6ft. for a double one.)

Dig out for, and lay a drain with, 3in. draining-pipes (bedded in clay if necessary) from the downfall pipes to the rainwater tank, as shown in the plan.

Spread the earth thrown out, and leave all level and smooth round the building when the works are finished.

MASON AND BRICKLAYER.

Foundations.-Build the foundations of bricks set in mortar, as shown on the plans.

Or, Build them of flat-bedded stones in good lime mortar. Or, better still, the same in good mortar grouted full up with liquid mortar.

Or, Fill the trenches with concrete, formed of five parts of clean gravel to one of lime, rammed solid.

Walls.-Build the walls of the thicknesses shown on the plans, of good, hard, well-burnt bricks, laid in English bond; to be completely filled throughout with mortar, and no fourcourses to rise more than one inch beyond the height of the bricks; to be carefully pointed outside, and also inside, wherever not required to be plastered. Or, Build the external walls of stone (16in. or 18in. thick, as required), walled random (or in courses), to be completely filled with small stones and mortar (or to be filled with small stones and grouted full up every nine inches in height), and to have not less than two through stones in each yard superficial of wall. (See p. 40.) Or, Build the walls of hollow bricks, as shown on plan.

(See p. 41.)

Mortar.-The mortar to be made of fresh, well-burnt lime and clean sharp sand, in the proportion of five of sand to two of lime.

Dampcourse.-A layer of gas-tar and lime (or other material, see p. 36) to be spread over the surface of all walls just above the ground level.

Or, A layer of slates in cement. (See p. 36.)

Flues.-Carry up the flues of the sizes shown on the plans;

(9in. by 14in. for the kitchen flue, and 9in. by 9in. for the other flues, will do); to be properly pargetted throughout.

Or, Form the flues of glazed socket-pipes. (See p. 45.) Ventilation (if required).-Form a warm-air chamber by

carrying up a smoke-flue of 9in. glazed socketted pipes, well jointed with cement, inside the kitchen flue, and carry warm-air flues formed of 3in. draining-tiles through the walls, as shown in the plan. (See p. 45.) Chimney-stack.-Build the chimney-stack with brick-shafts, as shown in the plan. (See p. 85.)

Or, Build the chimney-stack as shown, and provide and fix fireclay or common chimney-pots.

Arches. Turn half-brick arches on chimney-bars over all fireplace openings (or without chimney-bars over the bedroom fireplaces.)

Turn discharging arches over openings, as shown in the plans.

Plinth.-Form the plinth of splayed bricks, as shown in the plans.

Stringcourses.-As shown in the plans. (See p. 95.)

Cornices or Corbels.-As shown in the plans. (See p. 98.) Thresholds of 7in. tooled Yorkshire (or other hard) stone to

front door; 2 in. flag to back door; to be morticed to receive the tenon of the door-frame (instead of making a tenon on the door-frame, an iron tenon let into both door-frame and threshold is sometimes used).

Or, (if the door-frame be made with a cill) Joint the cill to the threshold with a strip of zinc three-quarters of an inch wide, let into the cill and the threshold, and bedded in white paint or in gas-tar. (See p. 36.)

Heads and Cills to be of stone, as shown in the plans; the cills to be properly throated and weathered.

Or, Arched-brick heads, as shown in the plan, and followed by cills to be formed of brick and tile, as shown in the plans. (See p. 48.)

Hearths. Each hearth to have 2in. flag back-hearth, and flag or rubbed stone hearthstone laid upon half-brick trimmer arches.

Tile and Brick Floors.-Pave the living-room and passage with 9in. paving-squares (or with red and black squares). The scullery and pantry, with hard-burnt stock-bricks, on edge, laid in sand (or, better, laid in mortar, and jointed with mortar).

Ranges and Copper.—Set these, and provide for the copper a 2in. tooled flag curbstone, pierced for the copper. Chimney-pieces. Provide and fix with proper holdfasts,

rubbed stone jambs and mantle, 6in. wide to the livingroom, and 4in. wide to the bedroom fireplaces (or these latter may be of wood).

Also mantel-shelf in the living-room of stone or wood. Sink.-Provide and set upon 4in. brick walls, a stone sink, 4 in. thick and 2ft. 6in. by 1ft. 6in. inside, with a bell trap let in.

Or, This is sometimes made of cast iron.

Rain-water Tank.-Build the rain-water tank of 9in. brickwork lined with cement.

Or, Of 4 in. brickwork, with a layer of clay spread over it, and then lined with 4 in. brickwork. (see p. 56.)

Or, Otherwise if required. (See p. 57.)

Cover the tank with a 4in. brick arch.

Beamfilling-Beamfill in round all external walls (and also

round any internal partition wall where required) close up to the roof.

If the living-room have a boarded floor laid hollow underneath, the following should be added:

Build 4 in. dwarf walls to carry the floor joists.

Build in air-bricks under the floor, as shown in the plan, (See p. 36.)

CARPENTER AND JOINER.

Roof-To be of sound red Baltic or American timber, of the following scantlings:

Wall-plate, 5in. by 2in.; purlines, 6in. by 2in.; ridgeboard, 5in. by in.; spars, 4in. by 2in. to be 16in. apart from centre to centre (or 4in. by 1in., 13in. apart); collars, 3in. by in., spiked to each pair of spars, and to serve as ceiling joists; valley-boards, 15in. by 1in. (if required).

The roof at the gables to be finished with a barge-board pierced, or with a pattern cut on its edge, as shown in the plans. (See p. 91).

Or, The roof at the gables to project 8in., to be supported on bearers extending through the wall; the outside spar to be dressed and chamfered (or finished with a moulding). Or, The gable may be finished as shown at p. 93, in which case it must be specified for in the bricklayer's work. The eaves of the roof are sometimes raised a little by a

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