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sailed with us, under the orders of Captain Hamilton, who is the senior officer of the station. Vourla is distinguished by a number of windmills on the heights; and various small islands at their foot, give a beautiful and picturesque appearance to the bay. .. .
Wednesday, 19th Jan.—Walked this morning, with my gun, across the hills; but started no game. The country here is more cultivated than any part of Ionia that I have yet seen; the olive and fig-tree are very abundant. Returning by the shore, I discovered a creek, which gave back a singularly fine echo. I also picked up a few common shells. The object of most interest here, is a small island opposite the ancient Clazomene, (now Vourla,) once connected with the main land, and celebrated for the mole, said to have been built by Alexander the Great. The foundations are yet evident; and several ruins scattered over the island, seem to bespeak a place of some importance. By the margin of a circular pit, we found some specimens of a tesselated pavement; and I learn, from the chaplain of the factory at Smyrna, that he and Lord St. Asaph found considerable quantities, on excavating 174
PROCEED ON THE VOYAGE.
the pit alluded to. In another part of the island, there is a vaulted passage, supported by a column, which seems now to serve the purpose of a well. You descend by a flight of steps, and a fig-tree flourishes upon the summit. Beneath a niche in the remotest part is a kind of sarcophagus, from which the lid has been lifted, apparently, for examination. Upon the beach I found many detached pieces of Mosaic, of various colours and beauty. Some of them resembled crystal, and others lapis lazuli, &c. The echo, caused by the report of a gun, reverberated exactly like thunder among the hills.
Friday, 21st Jan.—Set sail for Thessalonica. About noon, the Cyrene, a twenty-gun sloop of war, commanded by Captain Grace, came in sight. She was telegraphed, and ordered to join. It blew so hard during the night, (though the wind was fair,) that we carried away our main top-sails.
Saturday, 22d Jan.—This morning we came in sight of the Olympian chain of mountains, covered with snow. Ossa and Peleon (now called Kissavo and Zagora) were distinctly visible; Mount Athos, at intervals, might be
dimly perceived. The day was gloomy, and Olympus, which we passed, was enveloped in clouds; but as the sun struggled to break through, it cast, occasionally, on its hoary sides, many beautiful lights; and, before we anchored, gilded the whole chain with a shadowy magnificence.
We cast anchor off Thessalonica about six o'clock, P.M.
Sunday, 23d Jan.—Having performed divine service, we were put on shore in the cutter, and hastened to pay our respects to the English consul, Mr. Charnaud, whom we found the same obliging and friendly person that Dr. Clarke and other travellers have described. His son accompanied us in our researches. The Propylaeum of the ancient Hippodrome, still survives; but it has been so much defaced by time and boyish wantonness, that its beauty is considerably impaired. It forms the side of a house, in which its columns are buried. Dr. Clarke speaks of five, but now there are only four. The figures are very much mutilated,— the same propensity (for it cannot be worse) appearing to exist here as in England. The lads hurl stones, and the Turks discharge their muskets, at the statues; so that their situation may easily be conjectured.
THBSSALONICA—MOSCH OF ST. DEMETRIUS. 17?
From the Hippodrome we proceeded to the Mosch of St. Demetrius. Dr. Clarke calk it the ancient Metropolitan Church: but this is a mistake; universal tradition ascribing it to the Mosch called Eske Djummee. Here, also, the Doctor, and Beaujour, whom he followed, are in error. They term it the Temple of the Thermean Vdnus. The truth is, it is a Rotunda, and built in imitation of the Pantheon. It had six large arched recesses in its sides; and the top has all the appearance of having been added when first used for a Christian church. The dome is in Mosaic, and nearly ruined. We picked up abundance of the coloured glass with which it was composed.
The Eske Djummee, therefore, the Metropolitan Churchy and the Rotunda, are one and the same. There is in front of it what Dr. Clarke, speaking of the latter, calls a ** magnificent marble bema, or pulpit," bufl'it may rather be the ascent to one, since there are steps alone, winding, as we see them sometimes in the present day. The figures are in basso-relievo, armed cap-a-pie, and finely executed. But they cannot be very ancient; for the most conspicuous figure wears around Vol. r. N