the same position as in the gallop, but not leaning forward as in the standing leap. The bit is used only to direct the horse to the object over which he is to jump, the tension being eased just before he rises, that he may extend his neck, and resumed, as he lands, to steady him. If sluggish, the horse may be touched with the whip or spur, behind the girths, before he comes to the jump, but not at the instant he takes it, nor should he be encouraged by a cry, or by doing anything that might cause him to swerve. A horse can make a flying high leap best when he approaches it in a slow gallop, and the rider should never attempt to make him jump at so great a speed that he cannot collect himself for the leap. A high speed also prevents the horse from deciding where he should begin the leap, and confuses him. Only very expert riders are warranted in interfering with a horse in taking his jumps; most horses jump best if allowed to "take off," or leave the ground, as they please, the rider only steadying them a little if they rush at the obstacle. There is a great deal of nonsense in the idea that a horse can be "lifted" and "helped" over his jumps; and it is usually novices, or very young persons, who attempt these feats: one might as well try to "lift himself by his boot-straps," as to "lift" a horse over a jump. If the horse is sluggish, he must be enlivened with whip or spur, or by moving the bit in his mouth; but not the instant he is to "take off" the ground. The rider must not pull his horse as he rises, nor whilst he is in the air-to do so shortens the jump: if the rider cannot sit the jump, after a few trials, without the support of the reins, he had better improve his seat before continuing the sport. In training a horse to jump, he should be made to leap only a few times at first, as he uses muscles not usually put to a strain, and, moreover, will learn to dislike it if made tired. Horses seem to like jumping in the field with the excitement attending the hunt, but some of the best judges say they never like it: they certainly dislike being “schooled," and jumping in cold blood. Always save your horse in hunting: take the fewest jumps necessary, and go through a break in the fence, or through a gate, when you can. Ease your horse in going over plowed ground, or up hill. If waiting at a check," dismount and loosen your girths, and shift your saddle an inch either way. Balking. If a horse refuses to move, or balks, wait quietly for a minute and he will often go on. Sometimes he can be made to go by moving the reins gently, and urging him with voice or whip; sometimes by pulling him around in the direction which he least resists; or, often by turning him around, sharply and quickly, a number of times (thus confusing him), and then starting in the desired direction. A little dirt from the road put into his mouth often so distracts a balky horse's attention from his obstinacy that he will move on. Rearing. The young horse is apt to rear if pulled and excited. When he rises, loosen the reins, even if you must hold on by the mane or neck; press the legs closely to him, well back: this has a tendency to bring his hind legs forward, and experts often use spurs, applied well back, to bring him down. Try to keep him moving either forward or in a circle, and pull his head toward either side if he is about to rise. If he is about to fall_backward, try to throw yourself off to one side. A confirmed rearer is too dangerous to ride. Shying. Shying is sometimes caused by near-sightedness, or other defect in the eyes, but it is generally the result of habit arising from bad breaking. If from the latter cause If a horse is evidently confirmed in the habit, he is not fit to ride, and should be disposed of and put to work where he can do no harm. it can usually be overcome; if from it as he begins to notice it, and bad eyesight, never. In riding a shy- thus attracting his attention to ing horse, the first requisite is that something else: he cannot think of "the rider shall not shy himself." two things at the same time. He should not let the horse know that he is expecting him to shy, as he communicates his timidity to the animal, who loses confidence in both himself and his rider. Whilst the Bolting. If a horse bolts, or rider should be on his guard, he rushes from control of the bit, should not, by change of seat or loosen the reins a moment and reins, lead the animal to think some- give them a sudden jerk, or sharply thing is about to happen as he ap-"saw "him: that is, pull the reins proaches an object: he should ride alternately on either side quickly straight ahead, apparently paying no and sharply, keeping his head up. attention to the object or the horse. Some authorities say that by If he shys or sheers from freshness, gathering the reins so short in the keep him in a straight line by pull-left hand that it presses against the ing his head toward the object and mane, and then passing the right giving him pressure with the leg on hand down (on either side as close the opposite side. If he stops or as possible to the bit and pulling turns around, make him go, even if the horse's head quite around to you must whip him (behind the one side, any bolter may be stopped. girths), especially if his shying be a It is best to stop the horse, if possimere pretence. If the object be ble, so soon as he starts faster than really frightful much kindness the rider wishes him to go, before he should be used, with firmness. A has gotten into the running stride. steady rein and plenty of "nerve But if he does run, try to keep your in the rider will usually overcome seat; shying, as the horse gains confi- him g dence in himself through his confi- then dence in his rider. He should not run o be forced to face an object which really frightens him. He may be gotten to pass it by turning his head from it, and pressing him on the side toward which his head is turned. If the object is moving toward the horse it is best to turn his head from it and his side toward it, stopping him, or moving gradually, until the object has passed. Horses will often pass an object and not shy at a similar one again, if given a chance to examine it and touch it with the nose after being gently gotten up to it. Never whip a horse for shying after he has passed the object, as he will soon acquire the habit of running after each shy, as he expects the whip. A horse may often be made to pass an object without shying by quietly pulling his head away from In throu some animals are vicious by nature. The rider should seldom use his whip to punish his horse, and the spur should never be so used. But when the whip is used for punishment, it should be sharply applied two or three times. If used to make the horse go forward when backing, it should be taken in the right hand, and a sharp cut be given over to the left side, behind the saddle girths, and brought back very quickly on its rebound, and struck on the right side, behind the girths. To do this expertly requires some practice off the horse, but it is worth the time, as it does not give the pain on one side only, and cause the animal to swerve. Skilled riders advise that a contest between the horse and his rider always be avoided, if possible, by turning the horse's attention to something else. Never strike on the shoulder, as the horse naturally draws back, or swerves, from the blow. bearing upon the bit is an effort to transfer a part of his weight. A good veterinary should be consulted in such a case. Hands. A rider is said to have "bad hands" when he continually pulls at his horse's mouth. "Good A bad rider sometimes punishes hands," or "light hands," seem to his horse for not understanding what be natural with some riders, and alhe is wanted to do, when the fault is most impossible to cultivate in with the rider himself, who either others. Women oftener have good does not know how to make his hands than men, perhaps because desire known, or does not do so they are not as strong and are clearly. A well-trained horse is more sensitive. Often a woman always willing to obey, and does so can ride with ease a high-strung the moment he understands. To nervous horse, which may be a punish him for not understanding puller, or even a run-away, under is usually one step toward making a rough-riding man. The rider him vicious. Authorities differ must learn to "give and take" much on the subject of training horses, but it is safest to err on the side of kindness. A rider who does not lose his temper has a great advantage. A nervous horse with high courage may be a perfect saddlehorse in the hands of a self-controlled rider, and useless in those of a cruel, loud-voiced one. In country-road riding, always pick the softest paths; and if the road be macadamized, ride on the edges. Ride slowly on descents, with shoulders back, and walk your horse down hills. Pulling. Many horses pull, when first leaving the stable, from lack of work, and soon calm down. Some horses of a nervous disposition pull through anxiety to go ahead: such animals can be ridden with comfort only through gentle treatment and light hands. Often they will not pull unless pulled by the rider. Easy bits, such as a snaffle, bar, either rubber covered, should be used alternately, every few days. Horses with low, heavy shoulders, carrying low heads, are apt to pull, and are not fit for saddle use. If a horse with a good mouth begins to pull and bear down upon the bit, will often be found that his feet are becoming contracted or "sore," or with the reins. If the horse pulls, use force enough to bring him to the pace required, aided by a kindly and quietly spoken word, like "there," or "walk” (but not "whoa," which should always mean stop), and then gradually loosen the reins. Always hold the reins tightly in the hands, whether pulling or not. Unless great force is required, hold the fore-arms at right angles to the body, with the hands downward at the wrist, as in playing a piano. It will be found that there is strength enough at the wrists for the control of most horses,―certainly for well broken ones, and that the hands will grow "light" as they "give and take" from the wrist with the motion of the horse's head whilst in action. If a horse bears down upon the bit, his head may be brought up by raising the hands and moving the snaffle reins sharply and quickly from side to side; or, if he is persistent, by raising either hand with a sharp pull upwards, ten or twelve inches. If the tendency of the horse is to carry his head too low, carry the hands somewhat high. If he has it the opposite tendency, carry the hands low. he is stiff in his front legs. This Spurs. No beginner should wear spurs: they are a source of danger his toes outward should put them On. Stumbling. A stumbling horse should never be ridden. The fault may arise from some curable disease of the feet, but usually from weak knees or legs. If mounted on a stumbler, keep his head up and make him move at a lively pace by aid of whip or spur. except when worn by experienced woman's saddle should have a flat horsemen, and no rider who turns seat (Martin & Martin, of 5th Avenue, New York, who have their workshop in London, or Peat & Co., Piccadilly, London, make them). The stirrup should be plain, or of the kind shown on the saddle illustration, not the old-fashioned slipper. Riding should be practised without using the stirrup: it gives great confidence, balance, and freedom. Of course it is not intended to recommend long rides without a stirrup; but only practise during exercise in the school or at some safe spot. The rise to the trot can be done without it, and should not depend too much upon it: by grasping the upright-head firmly with the right leg and pressing the left knee against the leaping-head, or lower pommel, the rise can be accomplished with the slightest aid from the stirrup, and in fact should be so ridden. Bits. Most horses go well with the double bit; that is, the curb and snaffle or bridoon, as shown in the picture of the bridle. But some horses with very tender mouths or nervous dispositions go better with the snaffle alone: it may be used with two reins, but without the extra head-piece (B) in picture. A few horses go well with the curb, but dislike the additional mouthpiece of the snaffle. For these the Pelham bit may be used. Pelham Bit. Riding Hints to Girls. A girl should not ride every day, and long, until she is sixteen, unless she have a second saddle, with the pommels on the right side, to enable her to sit on different sides of the horse on alternate days. In very young girls the muscles are weak, and the spine and shoulders may grow crooked. No girl ought to ride unless she likes to and is fearless. A horse quickly knows if his rider is afraid and soon becomes master. A To make the horse canter, leading with his right leg, pull his head slightly to the left with the left rein and press him quickly with the left heel. To make him lead with the left foot pull the right rein and tap him with the whip, behind the girths, on the right side, where the heel would touch him if on that side. A woman or girl, in mounting, should place her right hand on the upright-head, and her left foot in the left hand of an assistant, held about 16 inches from the ground. She places her left hand on his right shoulder, and his right hand is under her left arm-pit. The assistant counts one, two, three. At three, she springs upwards, the assistant aiding her by rising. Being on the saddle, she places her right knee over the upright-head. The assistant sees that her left foot is placed in the stirrup and fastens the elastic straps for holding the skirt in place. In dismounting, after first releasing the right leg and the dress from the pommel and turning from the for A, Upright-head; B, Leaping-head; C. Seat; D, Safe (corresponding part on right of Saddle is the Flap); E, Stirrup-leather; F, Stirrup; G, Secondary Stirrup (which turns down and releases foot in case of a fall); H, K, Girths; I, Balance Girth. shoulders and hips squarely to the front, looking straight between the horse's ears. The right leg above the knee lies flat on the saddle, while the right knee grasps the upright-head firmly. Below the knee the leg is drawn back, and the toes are bent downward. The left knee is close to the saddle, and the leg below the knee hangs easily down. The foot in the stirrup is held parallel to the horse's side. The rules of the road in riding are the same as for driving, and should be followed very carefully, both in the park and on the road. See under article on DRIVING. RING BALL, a game played by any number or persons with a soft ball of rubber or stuffed cloth. The players form a circle, each standing near a base, which is usually a stone. The bases are at equal distances; the size of the circle may be large or small, provided one standing inside it can easily throw to all the bases. At the beginning of the game any player takes the ball and throws it into the air. The one nearest whom it stops must stand within the circle. The one at his right now takes the ball and throws it at the player in the circle. If he misses, he also must go into the circle; if he hits, all leave their bases and run where they please, till the one hit gets the ball, when he shouts "Halt!" and all must stop. In either case, the one thrown at throws the ball in turn at some one of those on the circumference of the circle, but if he has been obliged to go out of the circle to get the ball, he must return inside before he can throw. The one he hits must join those inside the circle. If he hits nobody, all return to their bases. The one hit, or the one nearest the ball, takes the next turn at throwing it. So the game goes on, till all but one are inside the circle. This one now takes the ball, and running around the circle, outside, where he pleases, tries to hit those within, while they strive to get the ball and hit him. The player outside has the advantage, for he can run back as far as he wishes, while they cannot leave the ring. Those whom he hits are "dead," and must retire outside the ring. If he "kills" all without being hit himself, he is victor. But if he be hit, he and all he has "killed" must go within the circle, while the others take their stand at whatever bases they choose, and the game proceeds as before. This ball game is played in Germany, where it is called Kreisball (Ring Ball). In Switzerland it is |
